Friends and Food at The Service Alley

Picture having a friend whom you have known most of your life. This friend not only learns how to cook, but also intuits how to host in a way that makes guests feel not just fed but nurtured. This joy of being welcomed into a comfortable home and dining on food prepared by people who know you: this is the feeling found at The Service Alley, run by executive chef James Foerst, sous chef Nate Shaffer, and their partner, Jessica Smith.

Nestled in the space that was once Kelley’s bar, The Service Alley can’t help but be welcoming, since its predecessor was part of Vero Beach for 30 years. However, it was serendipitous that this is the vibe longtime friends Foerst, Shaffer, and Smith wanted to curate for their beloved town.

Foerst and Smith ran Garage Pizza, another Vero staple, for years, and Foerst and Shaffer have been friends since middle school. With a laugh, Shaffer says, “He would always talk about how he and Jessica were going to open this restaurant, and I finally asked who he was going to do this with [as his sous chef], and he said, ‘You!’”

As Smith explains, all three organically came together because of “their love of food and desire to bring something to Vero that was outside of the box.” Foerst concurs, adding, “Our flavors stand out; we don’t want to serve any cookie-cutter food.” All three decided that showcasing their personality in everything from their menu selections to their dishware—which is thrifted for individuality—was paramount to success.

To bring unconventional items like the báhn mì sandwich and steak tartare to their upscale menu, the three like to travel for inspiration. Knowing how hard it can be to choose just one favorite, they focused on shared plates so guests can build an experience unique to their taste buds. All three recommend ordering one entree and several appetizers for multiple options.

Even the name itself partners well with the idea of community. The “service alley” is more than just an actual alley for deliveries. Since restaurants don’t have break rooms, the service alley is where workers gather for a quick break. The camaraderie found outside is what inspired the restaurant’s name, because, as Smith says, “We want guests to feel like they are all out back with us—just a part of our evening.”

Appetizer: Steak Tartare

This minced, raw tenderloin is prepared in a sesame base, topped with a shaved cured egg yolk, and served with a toasted Tribeca baguette.

Serves 4

• 1 lb. beef tenderloin
• 1/2 tsp. sesame oil
• 2 tbsp. chili paste
• 1 oz. diced shallot
• Salt and pepper to taste

Dice the tenderloin and set aside. Then mix together all other ingredients and combine with the meat. Refrigerate until time to serve.

Top with shaved cured egg yolk (see below) and serve with toasted Tribeca baguette.

Cured Egg Yolk

• Egg yolks (number depends on desired amount)
• 2 cups granulated sugar
• 2 cups kosher salt

Mix the salt and sugar together. Separate the yolks from the egg whites, and place yolks on a bed of the salt and sugar mix, then cover fully and let sit for 7 days.

Entrée: Shrimp & Grits with Collard Greens

In this dish, classic Southern ingredients are finished with red-eye gravy.

Serves 4

Shrimp

• 2 lbs. (13–15) Argentine red shrimp
• 3 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
• 2 oz. fresh lemon juice
• 1 tbsp. lemon zest
• 2 cloves garlic

Season and marinate the shrimp with all ingredients, then grill until cooked.

Collard Greens

• 5 lbs. collard greens
• 1 yellow onion
• 10 cloves garlic
• 1/4 lb. applewood smoked bacon
• 1 cup Frank’s RedHot sauce
• 1 lb. butter
• 2 qt. vegetable stock
• Salt and pepper to taste

Sauté the onion, garlic, and bacon, then add the collard greens and hot sauce. Season with salt and pepper and add stock. Simmer until tender, approximately 2 hours.

Grits

• 2 cups yellow grits
• 2 cups whole milk
• 2 cups vegetable stock
• 1 cup heavy cream
• Salt and pepper to taste

First, boil the liquid (milk and vegetable stock), then add grits. Stir often for 1 hour to avoid clumping. Finish with heavy cream.

Red-Eye Gravy

• 1/4 lb. applewood smoked bacon
• 1 cup brown sugar
• 2 cups black coffee

Sauté the bacon until brown, then add brown sugar until caramelized. Pour the coffee into the pot with the bacon and brown sugar. Gently stir on low heat until there is a syrup-like consistency.

Dessert: White Chocolate Bread Pudding

This dessert has a fluffy, marshmallow-like consistency and isn’t overly sweet.

Serves 6

• 1 loaf white bread, diced
• 3 cups heavy cream
• 1 cup sugar
• 1 tsp. vanilla extract
• 1 egg
• 6 egg yolks
• 12 oz. white chocolate chips
• Fresh whipped cream

Mix together the cream, sugar, and vanilla, then heat the mixture over low heat. Next, slowly add the hot liquid to the eggs. Fold the egg and cream mixture into the bread, then add the white chocolate chips. Bake at 375 degrees Fahrenheit for 28 minutes. Serve with fresh whipped cream.